Straight for the Mountains

We retrace our steps for a couple of days back north from Dakhla through the desert but stopping at some new and interesting destinations. Laayoune is the centre point of the dispute regarding the status of Western Sahara with camps outside the town of Saharan's bent in their independence from Morocco. Only 10 days ago the BBC was reporting rioting and cars burning in the streets here, but all is calm as we ride into town, The hotel is another one used by the UN to house their staff and so we do no not need to pay for a guardian to watch the bikes overnight as right outside is an armed Policeman or two.

After Laayoune we stop at a special little Riad on the coast where we can fish for our supper from the beach. For some the opportunity to swim out into the huge surf is too tempting. It is a bit like being in a cross between a fight and a massage as the surf tosses you which ever way it chooses and pounds your muscles, leaving you feeling a bit bruised and battered but ultimately refreshed. However all return safely for a great fish supper overlooking the beach. The last day north bound in this desert takes us to another remote and peaceful Riad and then we are straight back to the mountains

The Tiz N test pass was built in the 1920's and some of the surface looks like it is still from the original construction. Rising to 2100 metres it twists and turns and winds its way on and up for 50+ miles of glorious fun. At the crest is Mustafa's Cafe. As he says “we Mustafa coffee” with him. To the rear of his cafe is a gravel track rising higher still and some riders go exploring. The 5 kilometre track rises to 2470m and has some stunning views and very big drops. A good ride but certainly not for those with vertigo!

You cannot visit this region of Morocco without going to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ait Ben Haddou. Recognizable to many from films such as Gladiator and Jesus of Nazareth it is one of the best preserved Ksars (a medieval fortified city) anywhere. We have an afternoon to explore but only after riding the Tiz N Ticha pass and a small back road route to get there. The back road was being worked on and for 30 miles we have fresh laid gravel being watered and graded. It makes for some challenging sections and we have a couple of minor spills in the group but all survive. For those continuing to Patagonia where Ruta 40 and Carreterra Austral await us this is good practice Where there is 30 miles here there are almost 1000 more awaiting us.

We ride on enjoying being back to the twists and turns of the Atlas mountains heading back out to the desert at Merzouga and a final night in the dunes before ultimately heading north to the ferry in a few days.

The twists and turns lead us to the Dades and Todra Gorges. The two beautiful and dramatic valleys are separated by 40 miles. However on the map there is a track that heads north from Dades to Agundal and then back down the Todra. Kevin has had it in mind if the weather is good to try the route and with the sun shining almost all the group decide to go along. What follows is a fantastic, full and challenging days ride. The Dades is paved to mile 20 and beyond this is rock, gravel, sand and mud for the next 35. It is remote and beautiful. Yet still along the “road” are scattered the odd shepherd with his flock and a small village or two. The ride claims only one faller and that was due to a suicidal dog who desperately wanted to see the underside of a V Strom. Fortunately both rider and dog survive. We arrive back at our hotel late in the day with just enough time for a celebratory drink and a late dinner. This turns out to be the best Tajine of the trip. Or is this just because we had all worked hard and were hungry? Seconds please!

We have a brief return to the desert ahead of us and the promise of an evening in the dunes, and a traditional Berber meal. However that is still ahead as we have only a week left of section 1 of Discover Our Earth before we freight the bikes to Buenos Aires ready for South America in the new year.