Fish in the Desert

The road from Marrakesh (isn't that a song title?) leads us to the coast and Essouria. Formerly a Spanish fortress town the old Medina is set back from the sea defenses of walls turrets and cannons. It forms an interesting mix. With the Medina more compact that than of Marrakesh and seemingly calmer due to the lack of scooters, the whole place feels more relaxed and laid back. This is probably added to by the surfers who flock here for the Atlantic surf.

The harbour is flooded with blue fishing boats as the town remains a major fishing port. Unsurprisingly there was lots of fish on the menu! From here we head south towards the “border” with Western Sahara, Our destination is planned to be Tan Tan. However as is the way with travel things change. When we arrive in Tan Tan there is “problem“ with hotel and so without any word they have moved the whole group to their other hotel in Tan Tan La Plage., a beach side town 15 miles further on. The location is tricky to find but we are on the beach. With fresh fish on the menu again the evening turns into good one for all.

From here we cross into the Sahara proper and the desert landscape of scrub and rocky rolling dunes or hamada is on either side of the road. We are heading to Boujdour. It sounds quaint and French but isn't either. It is proper small town Western Sahara with no concessions to Tourists. There is one restaurant with a Pizza sign over it but this has closed down a while ago. The town appears to be dry although the local urchin Mohammed will get you anything. Hash? Women? Drink? Nothing is beyond this 14 year old who makes it his business to see to out every need. Copies of documents – Mohammed gets them; Bags to carry – Mohammed carries. He earns well from the group and Larry suggests if we come back in a few years Mohammed is likely to be Mayor. I think he is probably right!

Boujdour affords us minor celebrity status as we are the only tourists in town and the bikes are a fascination for all the young kids.

Another day heading south across the desert follows as our final destination is Dakhla. Dakhla is a tourist town (it thinks) on a peninsula The day involves many police checkpoints and army stops to check our documents. All are friendly but we are fascinated by how important it seems to be for them all to know our profession? However all the Police and Army are very courteous and helpful. There is a small issue of not stopping at the Stop sign which costs a fine of 700 Dhm but even this was dealt with in a nice, if costly, manner.

The ride through the desert is marked by two things. The first is the police and army checkpoints that all ask for Fishes. Fishes in the desert? Yes - What they are asking for is a copy of our passports and vehicle documents - “Fiches” Having them ready saves a lot of time at each of the stops. The other is the smell. Every few miles there is a terrible stink of rotting fish. Fish in the Desert? Yes again – There is a big fishing industry in Dakhla and they load the trucks up in Dakhla to drive north a loaded with fish packed in ice. The ice melts as they drive in the desert heat and so the trucks stop at the side of the road and open a valve on the back of the truck and empty the now melted ice and fish blood on the side of the road. It turns the sand black and it stinks!

All arrive in Dakhla and a day off to explore the dunes, go sand yachting, kite surfing or ride down to the Tropic of Cancer, which is just 35 miles south of us. Although most choose to rest and check their bikes and wander the town. We will cross the Tropic of Capricorn in Chile in a few weeks time and another of those milestones of travel.

Dakhla is a military town with Moroccan troops and bases all over town. In the harbour there are a pair of Moroccan Frigates which forms half of the entire Moroccan Navy! The UN are staying in the hotel we are using, as they are here to keep the peace between the Moroccans who claim Western Sahara as their own and the Saharan's who claim independence. However all is calm here at present, so lets hope it stays that way for another 36 hours......