Wet and Wild

The rest in Santiago did us all good after some testing times in Patagonia. We ride out to head back into Argentina and across the Andes once again. This is the 7th time we have crossed the Chile / Argentina border as our route winds its way up the spine of the Andes. Among many dramatic hairpin filled roads we ride the road to the border is one of the most extreme. On the GPS screen it almost looks faked but I can assure you that the road is exactly as mapped. Just two days out of Santiago we are confronted by torrents and rivers crossing the roads. The roads are designed with hollows periodically to allow excess surface water to drain. In all the years I have ridden these roads I have never seen them like they are now. Chocolate brown water a metre deep is gushing across the road at considerable speed. The current is strong and the surface underneath is un predictable as the concrete is suffering from the effects of the water and debris carried with it. Getting the bikes across is a timely process and the safest way is to walk them across on the throttle with riders each side to support them if they are caught in the current or by an un-expected rock in the bottom. By the time we are all across we are all soaked. Cathy is almost swept under as she loses her footing and staggered to regain her balance in the current. But all is well even if our kit is going to be damp for a few days! We ride on through the Andes and soon arrive in our third country for South America. Bolivia. It is a poor and basic country but does boast the highest capital in the world – La Paz. With its heritage in mining visits down the mines are a must for many, and some who shall remain nameless are tempted to spend a few dollars for a stick of dynamite, available for throwing and blowing stuff up with! After surviving the ‘road of death’ the group was set to leave the witches markets and craziness of the traffic of La Paz and head towards Lake Titicaca and Peru. It was a cloudy morning but dry as we set of towards the shores of the highest navigable lake in the World. We arrived at the small town of San Pablo de Tiquina and some of the riders looked a bit shocked and nervous at the prospect of backing their bikes onto what looked like a home wooden raft powered by a small outboard motor. The young lads controlling the ‘ferries’ told us only 4 bikes to one and we had to balance the bikes evenly to keep them stable on the water. To help with one they also loaded a large bull! The owner warned the riders not to get too near, and unsurprisingly every-one kept their distance. All bikes crossed safely and a look of relief was on most faces as the bikes road back onto land. It was a short ride up to the Bolivian/Peruvian border. It was a quick exit from Bolivia with no fuss. We then road under the arches to the Peruvian side. This was a little slower as the printer for our bike permits kicked into life. The final check was the police and requests for a coffee indicated a ‘fee’ would be appreciated. I changed the subject and talked about football. After a few exchanges of Manchester United verses Chelsea we were on our way into the land of the Incas. Our first stop in Peru was Puno on the coast of Lake Titicaca and our staging post for a visit out to the floating reed islands. At 9am the next day our boat headed out into the lake. The Uros people who live on the lake, fish, hunt birds and live of the lake plants. The totora reeds are most important and they use these for their boats, houses and the foundations of the islands. That evening most of the group headed into Puno and a table had been booked at a nice local restaurant to sample the local delicacy of ‘cuy’ or guinea pig. Served up with head and pointy teeth, the group tucked in. I don’t know if we will be ordering them again but it made a good picture and a story for nieces back home and yes, it tastes a bit like chicken. Leaving Puno we road across the high altiplano with Cusco as our destination. Cusco was the ancient Inca capital meaning ‘navel of the earth’. Today it is a fascinating mix of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture and a major tourist centre on the gringo trail. As well as having a few beers in the famous biker bar The Nortan Rats, we would be visiting one of the most visited sites in South America and no trip here would be complete with it, Machu Picchu. Rediscovered in 1911, we are here in the centenary of its discovery. A horrible early start for the group at 5.30am , the trip includes buses, trains and more buses to reach the site. Partly cloudy but with no rain the group enjoyed a fantastic day with a great guide showing them around this mysterious ancient Inca site. With a couple more nights to explore the splendours of Cusco the group are in good spirits and the bikes are running great at these high altitudes, which is more than we can say about some of the riders. Once we leave here we will be heading west and down to Nazca. Sea level air and warm temperatures await us as we continue to Discover our Earth.

Go (North) West Young Man

From Ushuaia unless you are swimming or sailing there is only one way to go and so we head north and west to the spine of the Andes. But the strikes and protests in Chile are still in full swing in the Punto Arenas region and there are tales of kidnappings on the road. So we divert and take a swing around the planned southern route to avoid any potential trouble. More re routing and planning back at base. This is where having Julia and the team back at home is invaluable. We take a day off to see the Perrito Moreno Glacier, the scale of which never fails to impress. After the dramas of the southern ride this section seems to run more smoothly. The new riders who have joined us in Buenos Aires have been welcomed into the group although those who left us after the first section in Africa are still missed. The wildlife viewings are of course a highlight, with Penguins, Guanaco, Sheep (of course) and a host of other indigenous animals. The fresh lamb on the parilla is also a sight to behold in the wilds of Patagonia. But there is more Patagonia drama in store.The weather is clear and bright in the south and the views and scenery are incredible.The roads are clear and the gravel surfaces are largely great riding.But never underestimate these roads.One of the riders who has joined in Buenos Aires goes down on the loose surface and although apparently largely OK develops back pain that prevents him continuing with his ride. As we ride north to San Carlos de Bariloche (Chocolate Town!) the rider who’s bike who has been repaired back in Buenos Aires rejoins us having ridden west across Argentina to catch up the group. Riding in Patagonia is always tough but this time it has been tougher than previously. The ride takes us to Santiago for the second service stop of the trip as we have covered almost 6,000 miles since Buenos Aires. Our ride into the city is escorted by the Carabinieri. Riding into town with a flashing blue light escort through red traffic lights is a very special experience. Time for a few days off the bike to explore the city and for a wine tasting at the local vineyard. From Santiago we are heading north and the weather and roads have more surprises in store…